Delhi, meri jaan

Delhi. A city that’s perpetually buzzed on its own people. People who start their day with spicy chai and spicier gossip. I write about Delhi because it’s home. It will never feel like travel to me, but I still get asked for travel tips. So here goes — your semi-local guide to India’s chaotic, charismatic capital.

The Basics

Let’s get a few things straight. Delhi, the capital of India, is home to roughly 18 million people — about the size of Luxembourg, but with a bit more traffic and a lot more spice.

Yes, all the scary things you’ve heard are sadly true: it can be unsafe (especially if you’re not a cis male), polluted, chaotic, loud, and deeply confusing to navigate.

And yet — Delhi is also green, generous, full of colour, bursting with stories, and home to the best butter chicken in the world.

Old Delhi offers Mughal and Persian histories in every corner, while New Delhi is the polished face of Indian politics. You can come here for the food, the shopping, the stories, or as a quick stopover between the airport and the Taj Mahal — but Delhi deserves more than a layover.

Best way to see it? Autos and buses. Second-best? The surprisingly clean, efficient Delhi Metro.

History Hits

History in Delhi is not just a backdrop — it’s the main event. But if you’re here in the summer, pace yourself (unless you want to faint dramatically on a marble floor).

Must-sees:

• Red Fort – the beating heart of Delhi’s history.
• Jama Masjid – India’s largest mosque.
• Chandni Chowk – chaotic, magical, best experienced on a Friday night post-prayers.
• Humayun’s Tomb – a Mughal masterpiece (and pre-cursor to the Taj Mahal).
• Sundar Nursery – a lush, restored 16th-century garden next door.

Take an evening stroll around India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhavan, and treat yourself to an ice gola (“chuski”) while you’re at it. For a jog through history, head to Lodhi Garden in the early morning.

Food Goals

If you’re on a quest for butter chicken nirvana, welcome. You’ve arrived.

• Gulati, Pandara Road – my personal pick.
• Bukhara or Moti Mahal – for old-school, Michelin-guide-worthy indulgence.
• Karim’s in Old Delhi – no-frills, all flavour.
• Plus: Kallu’s Nihari, Aslam’s Chicken, Haji Mohammad’s kebabs, Natraj Chaat, and Parathe Wali Gali. Bring water. Bring courage.

High-end? Go to Indian Accent for award-winning fusion.
No-nonsense? Andhra Bhavan always delivers.
Drinks? There are many cocktail bars coming up in Delhi now. Sidecar is a must try.

Shopping Trails

Souvenirs and spices? Dilli Haat, obviously.
Bargains so wild they feel like robbery? Sarojini Nagar – but bargain like your rent depends on it.
Leather goods? Paharganj.

My fave? Khan Market – part expat, part elite, part surprisingly grounded.
If malls are your comfort zone, head to Select Citywalk (Saket) or Ambience Mall (Vasant Kunj).
And for the ultimate Delhi-day-out – a full circle of shopping, snacking, people-watching – there’s no place like Connaught Place.