Delhi, meri jaan

Delhi. A city that is drunk on its people. People who begin their days with spicy cocktails of shared stories. I write about Delhi because it is home. While Delhi will never feel like travel to me, I try to share some travel tips on it. 

Basics.

Let’s get the basics right first. India’s capital city with as estimated population of 18 million, Delhi is roughly the size of Luxembourg. All the scary things you have heard about Delhi are all unfortunately true: unsafe (for any non cis male), polluted, loud, big, crowded, hard to navigate. Fortunately, what is also true is that it is: green, warm, friendly, colourful and cooks the best butter chicken in the world. Old Delhi is known for Mughal and Persian history, and New Delhi is the centre of India’s politics today. You can visit Delhi for its history, food, shopping, politics, or if you’d really like to be a cliche then as a stop  between your trip to Taj Mahal. Delhi is best seen on its buses and autos, the second best option is the well connected and clean Delhi Metro.

History

There is a lot of history to see in Delhi but if you are visiting during summer then skip the ambitious listunless you want to be dizzy in the middle of scorching sunny afternoons. You must visit the Red Fort, the centre of Delhi’s history; Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India and Chandni Chowk the main street of Old Delhi, highly recommended on a Friday night after the Friday evening prayers, to find yourself company in several local people enjoying a good evening dinner celebrating the start of the weekend. Also visit the Humayun’s Tomb, a marvel of Mughal architecture; along with the Sundar Nursery, a 16th century heritage park that was recently restored. Take a night stroll across the India Gate and Rashtrapati Bhavan (Parliament House), where you must treat yourself to an ice goal or “chuski”. For a morning run amid history, visit the Lodhi Garden.

Food

If you are like me – on a constant journey to find the best butter chicken then you are in just the right city. My favourite pick is the Gulati restaurant in Pandara Road but some also swear by Bukhara, or the Moti Mahal in Daryaganj. While in Old Delhi, you must visit Karim’s. Kallu’s Nihari, Aslam’s Chicken, Haji Muhammad’s stall, Natraj Chatwala, and of course the Parathe wali gali. Do buy some water to help gulp it all down and maybe borrow an athlete’s gut! If you’d like to splurge a little and taste top-end fusion food then book yourself a reservation in Indian Accent. For a no nonsense meal, head to Andhra Bhavan. If you are just in the mood for a good drink then go to Perch in Khan Market, Social in Hauz Khas, Farzi cafe in Aerocity or MyBar in Cannaught Place, based on your budget.

Shopping

If you are looking for souvenirs, spices and handicrafts then visit the Delhi Hat in INA- course you already knew that. For a big bargain, and I mean huge, go to Sarojini Nagar flea market but bring your best bargaining muscle along, or a local tough Delhi friend will also do. My favourite shopping spot in Delhi is Khan market where you find a mix of local, international, designer and flea markets. If you must absolutely go to a mall to shop then head to Select Citywalk in Saket or Ambience Mall in Vasant Kunj. For leather shopping, head to Paharganj. And for spending a day, shopping, eating and walking go to Connaught place market.